Lumen Christi, to an African beat

Easter arrives. After a perfect Saturday mix of touristy sight seeing, buying an iron, reading and washing my feet [see photo- it was that bad!], I headed over to eat the domoda (spicy peanut sauce) that Nicola and Abdou had spent most of the afternoon preparing and to see her new house. The girls at my local supermarket are missing her and were very impressed to learn of her Gambian cookery skills. So was I, domoda hasn't been a particularly welcome offering at my table so far but this one was nice, with good company as an added extra. [see photo - domoda shared bowl with Helen and Nicola (left-right)] However, I cut the night short to head home and back out for the Easter vigil mass starting at 10 pm.

The lights were out in Kanifing so I showered by candlelight. I also did my make up with a candle propped in the sink and managed to apply both DEET and Chanel without exploding my house. I was also starting to get a bit sentimental about the light in the darkness imagery of Easter when VSO Julie arrived and we hurried off to walk to church, me in my new African style outfit [see photo, I know the make up is slightly wrong, see above!]

We started in the school yard and walked around to the church. As the lights were on in Westfield the church wasn't very dark but it was incredibly windy so there was a lot of relighting each others candles and wax on shoes. Someone, the father of a fellow chorister, had given me my candle as a welcome gift. The ceiling fans were still whirring and my candle continued to stream and I managed to get wax all over the floor. How I managed to make more mess than anyone else is anyone's guess.

The service itself was a mix of Wolof, Latin and English with Jola, Creole thrown into the music. Everyone was in their Easter finery with skyscraper glittery heels peeping out from under the cassocks of readers and choristers dresses. Before I came over I was convinced I'd only need one pair of stillettos and that that was extravagant. Now I feel literally down at heel.

After the service which finished around one everyone wished each other Happy Easter which they do by saying "Deo Gracias" to which I correctly guessed the response of "alleluia". Alleluia is pretty much the response to everything at Easter; we just sung three different musical settings in a row during the service. However, people were still surprised that I knew it, I think they're very surprised there are any English Catholics at all.

I was invited to celebrate with dancing well into the following day. I'd been hoping for an invitation to see what African Easter celebrations include outside church However Julie was tired and cold, and I had an invitation to lunch at 10 the following morning so we got a taxi home. I was cross with myself for taking the sleepy route but glad I had made sure Julie was home safely.

During the service I had my first serious pangs of homesickness, especially for Katharine who I'd normally share such events with, who'd have loved every minute and who would definitely be our dancing if she was here. Due to the shared structure of the mass I knew we were engaged in very similar activities but very far apart. Therefore I decided to find out how much a text home costs. "lumen Christi. Deo Gratias". The reply came as I poured hot water onto milk powder. "Surexit Christus Hodie". And my Easter was complete.