Monday 21 October 2013

The rainy roads one

For those of you who read more than one Gambian VSO blog (mainly the Gambian VSOs), there’s a particular gap in my blog posts. Until now, I haven’t managed a decent write up of the experience of living and more precisely walking around during rainy season. This is a serious omission, especially as the rains have had a huge influence on all things Gambian over the past few months.  The rains are now drawing to a close and so there’s only short time to squeeze this one in.

As a Mancunian/Swansea alumni, rain is my home. Without it I start to go a little bit gung ho about the weather saying such things as “This isn’t a storm. Once I went to Manchester for a holiday and it only stopped raining for half an hour in a fortnight” and trying to wear rubber boots in the shower just to prove that both clothes and people dry. Yes, I have heard of tropical storms but I wouldn’t be from Northern England if I didn’t think that my type of rain is a) generally the most rain like of rain and b) the best (i.e. easiest to complain about backhandedly by being stoical about the whole thing).  However, I of course also concede that it rains all the time in Lancashire and therefore over time and as a developed country we have had to prioritise the development of infrastructure that facilitates movement during inclement weather. Or, put properly, we built solid roads with pavements and drains.  

However, Gambia is essentially a country built on the edges of a desert. It is sandy and it is not rich. It hasn’t needed to spend money putting rocks in the road to make sure its workforce didn’t drown before getting to a mill, or to make sure the newly milled cotton didn’t become an enormous muddy sterile pad on a highway miles from the market.  It rains for a few hours a day for a few months a year and the rest of the time it has bigger problems to deal with.  And so when the rains come so does the mud. And the water. And people who are quite happy to shelter for serveral hours far from home rather than getting wet. I faced disbelief when answering “We just go, people dry. Sometimes from water up to our knees” to the question “but if it rains all the time how does anyone get to work?” My cheap sandals have been glued back together twice. My rain coat is disintegrating.

But it is fun. One night after choir I was walking home with my friend Mathias as usual. Suddenly the wind rose sharply and waves of dust started trying to exfoliate our faces.  We took shelter behind a wall, then the drops of water started to fall. Sheltered in the crook of a wall we were getting wet. Dusty drops were bouncing in every direction, blown in parabolas by the whipping wind. Eventually I said “let’s walk, we’ll be as wet as if we stay here”. Instinct tells us to run but of course this makes no difference to the actual rate of getting soaked due to maths (speed of person + frequency of hitting drops balances each other out). The lights went out and, in flip flops, my feet were clinging to unseen mud and stones, as we dodged cars flying towards us, unseen in the thrashing storm. There comes a point when you are simply saturated and it’s dark and you are in the rain far from either house.  The water around us felt like being pelted by a gritter, flaying any exposed skin.

As many years of rain living will teach you, at that point the appropriate action is to dance and compare songs about the rain. We sang in the rain, we called the old man out on his snoring, we asked the rain to come again another day. And eventually, bedraggled, we arrived at Mathias’s family’s house.  His sister Antonia provided me with a towel and an entire new wardrobe. I unpacked my bag. As I tipped out the cup of water from the bottom, my iPhone slipped out. Buzzing with an electronical meltdown it died of exposure. But we had a cup of tea and a new story.

Of course, there was a lovely photo of my street as a river. Unfortunately it was on the iPhone. 

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